VoyageLA Magazine | August 13, 2020
In a revealing profile for VoyageLA Magazine’s inspiring local stories series, costume designer and entrepreneur Sam Salman opened up about his unconventional path from fashion design student to the founder of Northern Costume and Horse of Arabia—and the systemic obstacles he’s faced along the way.
An Unconventional Education
Salman’s career trajectory reflects a commitment to continuous growth and reinvention. His journey began at Los Angeles Trade-Technical College (LATTC), where he studied fashion design and business. This foundation led him into dual careers in both the garment industry and entertainment, experiences that would prove invaluable for his future endeavors.
During this period, Salman launched Horse of Arabia, his menswear line that combined his design sensibility with business acumen. But he wasn’t content to stop there. Recognizing the need for deeper artistic education, he made the bold decision to return to school, this time at the prestigious California Institute of the Arts (CalArts).
“I studied fine art and theatrical production with an emphasis on costume design at the California Institute of the Arts,” Salman explains. This graduate education transformed his approach to costume design, elevating it from skilled craftsmanship to fine art practice.
Building Northern Costume
Following his December graduation from CalArts, Salman helped establish Northern Costume, a made-to-order costume shop based in Valencia, California. The shop’s comprehensive services reflect Salman’s extensive training and hands-on experience across multiple disciplines:
Design Services:
- Costume Design
- Color Theory
- Character Breakdown
- Sketching and Costume Illustration
- Concept Art
- Technical Flats
Fabrication Capabilities:
- Pattern-making
- Women’s Made-to-Order
- Men’s Bespoke Tailoring
- Millinery & Accessories
- Shoe & Boot Manufacturing
- Gloves & Handbags
Specialty Techniques:
- Aging & Dying
- Snow & Ice Weather Effects
- Sweat & Wet Effects
- Dyeing – Color Match
- Dyeing – Halftones
- Leather Distressing
- Leather Painting
- Metallic Dye
This remarkable range of services positions Northern Costume as a one-stop solution for productions requiring everything from initial concept through final fit—a crucial advantage in the fast-paced entertainment industry.
Confronting Industry Realities
What makes Salman’s VoyageLA profile particularly powerful is his unflinching honesty about the challenges he’s faced. When asked whether his journey had been smooth, Salman didn’t sugarcoat the reality:
“My struggles are and have been the systematic forms of oppression and racism this country has in place. The entertainment industry is full of people with no talent and no skills, but who were brought on board by a family member. Nepotism. On set, I am one of the non-white people behind the camera.”
This candid acknowledgment of systemic barriers in Hollywood stands in stark contrast to the usual carefully crafted success narratives. Salman’s willingness to name these obstacles—nepotism, racism, and lack of diversity behind the camera—provides important context for understanding both his achievements and the ongoing challenges facing diverse creative professionals in entertainment.
The Competitive Edge
Despite these structural disadvantages, Northern Costume has carved out a distinctive position in the marketplace. When asked what sets his business apart, Salman pointed to pricing: “I believe our prices set us apart from our competition in that we do not charge nearly as much as our competitors.”
This strategic decision reflects both business savvy and personal values. By offering comprehensive, high-quality services at accessible prices, Salman makes professional costume design and fabrication available to a broader range of productions—from major studio projects to independent films and emerging creators.
Pivoting Through Pandemic
The VoyageLA interview, conducted in August 2020, captured Salman at a pivotal moment. When the coronavirus pandemic shut down production across the entertainment industry, Northern Costume faced the same challenges as countless other businesses serving the film and television sectors.
Salman’s response demonstrated the adaptability that has defined his career: “Once coronavirus hit, we went back to making clothing through Horse of Arabia for private clients and friends.” Rather than simply waiting for production to resume, he leveraged his dual expertise in fashion and costume to keep his business operational, serving private clients while the entertainment industry remained shuttered.
This pivot back to Horse of Arabia wasn’t just about survival—it represented a return to the menswear line that had launched his career, now informed by years of experience in costume design and fabrication.
Defining Success
Perhaps most revealing is Salman’s definition of success, which focuses not on awards, recognition, or financial metrics, but on the work itself and the opportunity to see it realized:
“I define success as the ability to complete a project and watch the performance either on stage, on TV or the big screen. On a daily basis, I am looking out for ways to both better myself and the company.”
This artist-centered definition of success—valuing the completion and exhibition of work above all else—speaks to Salman’s fundamental commitment to craft. It’s the perspective of someone who finds fulfillment in the creative process and the collaborative effort to bring stories to life, rather than in external validation or industry recognition.
Northern Costume Today
Operating from its Valencia location at 28064 Avenue Stanford, Unit H, Northern Costume continues to serve the entertainment industry with comprehensive costume design and fabrication services. The shop’s “made to order” philosophy means clients receive custom solutions tailored to their specific project needs—whether that’s creating period-accurate garments, designing futuristic costumes, or aging contemporary clothing to tell a character’s story.
The business maintains an active presence across multiple platforms, making it accessible to potential clients throughout the Los Angeles area and beyond. With contact available via phone, email, and social media, Northern Costume has positioned itself as a modern costume shop ready to serve the evolving needs of 21st-century production.
A Voice for Change
Salman’s VoyageLA profile stands out not just for what it reveals about his business and career path, but for what it says about the entertainment industry more broadly. His frank discussion of nepotism and lack of diversity behind the camera contributes to crucial ongoing conversations about access, opportunity, and equity in Hollywood.
As one of the few non-white people behind the camera on many sets, Salman brings both a unique perspective and an important voice to these discussions. His success—achieved without the family connections that open doors for many in the industry—demonstrates what’s possible when talent and determination meet opportunity.
Yet his candor about ongoing struggles acknowledges that individual success stories don’t solve systemic problems. Real change requires industry-wide commitment to dismantling the barriers that have historically excluded talented professionals like Salman from opportunities they’ve more than earned.
Looking Forward
The VoyageLA profile captured Sam Salman at a pivotal moment—navigating pandemic disruption while continuing to build his business and refine his craft. In the years since, he has continued to expand his portfolio with high-profile projects, including HBO’s Euphoria, Steven Spielberg’s The Fabelmans, and the Super Bowl LVI Halftime Show.
But the foundation remains the same: comprehensive training in fine art and theatrical production, hands-on experience across all aspects of costume design and fabrication, and an unwavering commitment to completing projects and seeing them realized on screen.
Whether working on major studio productions or creating custom pieces through Horse of Arabia, Salman continues to pursue his daily goal: “looking out for ways to both better myself and the company.” It’s this commitment to continuous improvement—combined with exceptional technical skills and artistic vision—that has established him as a distinctive voice in contemporary costume design.
